Just a quick hour's drive up the coast from Cavtat, a stone's throw from Dubrovnik, as if on the palms of hands put together serenly lies the township of Slano.

I negotiated a left turn off the main road and continued dowhill, disregarding for the moment the street sign that spells and points to all one can see and do here, and decided to simply park and sit on the seaside bench adjecent to the Croatian Nobles Square situated at the very center of Slano's namesake bay - this picturesque inlet of the Adriatic here commanded by relief depictions of Starčević, Radić, Stepinac and Tuđman. I then let my mind stay quiet and blank and my site wonder where it may.

I do this almost ritually upon ariving in a new place. Truth be told, I was not new to Slano, having visited it first via the writings of my great-great uncle - a grammar school teacher who taught for a couple of years here in Slano in the 19th century, and then a few times in person. But here in the context of now, with all its ebbs and flows and continually changing theme for its innumerable nuances, demanded that I respectfuly let my old friend Slano tell me its story anew.